Behind the Eco Labels
Ethical consumerism in the UK is currently worth £29.3 billion, yet 60 per cent of us feel we don’t have enough information to make an ethical decision. There is an ever-growing array of eco labels, but what do they tell us? Or fail to tell us? Pat Thomas explains
It used to be easy to shop. The bottom line of being a ‘canny consumer’ was a simple matter of getting the stuff you wanted at the best possible price. Informed choice was simply about knowing which shops had the cheapest prices.
Today things have changed because we know that everything we buy, everything we use and dispose of, leaves a mark on the world. The mark can be pollution caused by manufacture or disposal, the health consequences of using products that are made with and contain toxic chemicals, or the furthering of animal cruelty or human cruelty in the form of sweatshop labour to produce ever cheaper and more abundant goods. Or it can be a combination of all these and more.
Instead of one bottom line, many of us now negotiate at least three or four more, for instance: Is it organic? Is it ethically traded? Is it cruelty-free? Was it produced locally? At times, exercising informed choice can feel like a full-time occupation. Yet informed choices are more important than ever before. There are shortcuts that can help. Eco labels such as the Soil Association logo, the Fairtrade mark and the European Energy Savings symbol exist to provide a snapshot of the kinds of products we buy, how they were produced and their impact on the planet. But the ever-increasing number of eco-labels can easily lead to customer confusion.
Shopping by labels is a frustrating process that has come about in part because of how we have learned to produce goods (by strangers in faraway countries) and shop for them (disconnected from the producer and the production process). The complexity of the global marketplace means there is still no all-encompassing label to guarantee, for instance, that our clothes and other non-food items are not made with sweatshop or slave labour. Likewise, although organic produce commands a higher price at the checkout, there are no guarantees that workers on organic farms are benefiting.
Buying Fairtrade may help support industry in the developing world, but it can leave local communities in tatters, produce pollution through air miles and manufacturing effluent and emissions, and promote waste in the mountains of primary, secondary and shipping packaging required to move goods around the globe and get them on the shelves.
The loopholes and missing information of eco labelling are important to know about, because if we make our shopping decisions based on a single variable we can only ever fulfil a single goal. Apples are good for you. But if you eat only apples, you will not have a well-balanced diet. It’s much the same with using eco labels to define our choices.
Ethical shopping is now a part of the mainstream. Intriguingly, the number of ethical or political consumers – people who make consumption choices informed by values and concerns – is increasing even as faith and interest in other traditional forms of political activity are on the wane.
Eco labels have become a kind of everyday ballot and shopping ethically a statement of intent for many individuals, an immediate way of saying ‘these are things I care about’.
In a world where the ethical production and sale of goods was a true priority, our governments would respond to this ballot. They would ban products that waste or pollute. Making the world better by restricting consumer choice may be anathema to many, but consider what’s happening in Australia. Last month, the government there announced that from 2009 it will ban incandescent light bulbs in favour of more energy-efficient, compact fluorescent bulbs.
It’s a bold and positive move. And we need to respond, perhaps by facing up to the fact that an ethical life and, by extension, an ethical world, will not evolve out of ethical shopping. It works the other way round. To really make a difference through our shopping requires, paradoxically, that we buy less and that when we do make a purchase it is based on values that mean something to us, rather than just hollow promises of good value.
ORGANIC
All organic food must meet a common set of minimum standards, as defined by the EU. Each EU member state has a national control body; the United Kingdom Register of Organic Food Standards (UKROFS) regulates the activities of six certification bodies in the UK. The oldest and largest, the Soil Association (founded in 1946), currently undertakes 80 per cent of all certification in the UK and is arguably the organic label most trusted by consumers.
As a label and a concept, ‘organic’ has hit problems recently. Ideally, organic food should be locally produced, but around 56 per cent of organic food sold in the UK is imported.
Organic food shunted through conventional supermarket systems can be stored for extended periods before being put on the shelf, and thus may be less nutritious. The Soil Association recently announced its intention to withdraw certification from imported foods, in a bid to address the problem of organic air miles.
To cash in on a growing market, many large corporations have bought up small organic producers or begun producing and selling own-brand organic food. These corporations, dealing in high-volume goods, have exploited loopholes in the standards that, for example, allow them to raise dairy cows and chickens in confinement.
In the USA, for example, producers only need to give animals ‘access’ to outdoors; they don’t actually have to let them go out. Large producers are also allowed to feed animals on less than natural diets (such as prepared pellets) and use massive acreages to plant crops (thus encouraging monoculture). Things are better in the UK, but according to Viva!, the only organisation to set markedly higher standards for animal welfare is the Soil Association.
Finally, organic standards do not address the issue of worker welfare. According to a 2005 report by researchers at University of California Davis, a majority of 188 California organic farms surveyed did not pay a living wage or provide medical or retirement plans.
The Ecologist says
In the main, organic standards are among the highest available. You still have to read the label carefully, though. Generally, organic food labelling falls into one of two categories. Category 1 Organic products contain a minimum of 95 per cent organic ingredients by weight. Mostorganic products on sale in the UK fall into this category. Category 2 Special Emphasis products contain 70 to 95 per cent organic ingredients by weight. These products (e.g. tomato ketchup) can be labelled ‘Made with organic ingredients’. These percentages reflect the fact that some ingredients need not be or cannot be organic (e.g. water, yeast and salt).
FAIRTRADE
At heart, fair trade is a strategy for poverty alleviation. It creates opportunities for producers in the developing world who have been economically disadvantaged by the conventional trading system and ensures they receive a fair price for their goods, and support and education for sustainable farming practices.
Fairtrade is not the same as organic, though many farmers in the scheme do use traditional, and thus organic and sustainable, techniques. Some Fairtrade labels volunteer information on how the product (such as coffee or chocolate) was grown organically, to help consumers decide, though this is not required.
A Fairtrade mark will tell a consumer whether a commodity is fairly traded or not, but it does not guarantee fair trade throughout the supply chain. For instance, a T-shirt could be made with Fairtrade cotton, but still be sewn in a sweatshop. Neither does it help consumers distinguish between companies that are entirely committed to fair trade and those, like Nestlé, that have simply added a Fairtrade product to their range. This is one driving force behind the Fair Trade Organisation mark, launched in 2004 by the major fair trade certification body, the International Federation for Alternative Trade (IFAT). The FTO mark is given to organisations (as opposed to products) that operate according to fair trade principles. Organisations carrying this logo practice fair trade principles from the ground up.
The Ecologist says
When buying goods not produceable in the UK, such as coffee, the Fairtrade mark ensures we pay a fair price to those who produced it. However, scaling down your purchases of exotic goods may be of more general benefit to the environment.
FORESTRY STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL
One of the major causes of rainforest destruction and biodiversity loss in tropical zones is the illegal logging of hardwoods. The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) label, broadly speaking, exists to address this by promoting environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.
FSC accreditation certifies wood against 10 basic criteria that include the environmental, social and economic impacts of the forest industry. Biodiversity is encouraged and the legal and customary rights of indigenous peoples to own, use and manage their lands is recognised. Workers on FSC schemes have the right to organise.
Because the principles of the scheme are very general, loopholes can be exploited. For instance, although genetic engineering is not allowed, clear-cutting, use of chemicals (including herbicides) and preservation of old-growth forests are only addressed in a general way, without specific requirements.
Labels on FSC-certified products sometimes include a statement regarding the percentage of FSC wood in the product. However, the FSC label standards have shifted since the programme began. For example, prior to February 2000, chip and fibre products had to contain at least 70 per cent FSC-certified wood to qualify for the label. In February 2000, the minimum dropped to 30 per cent, only to be raised again in 2005 to 50 per cent. Drastic changes to standards like this can mislead consumers.
Last year, organisations from eight different countries requested the FSC withdraw certificates awarded to a number of large-scale tree plantation companies in Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Ireland, South Africa, Spain and Uruguay. The organisations said the certifications violated the FSC’s mandate of promoting ‘environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial, and economically viable management of the world’s forests’.
The Ecologist says
A recent comparison of forestry certification programmes concluded that FSC is probably still the best of the existing labels. When buying wood products in particular, beware of cheap goods that are not meant to last. Consider also natural products that are wood-free. Best of all, buy second-hand furniture – apart from meaning no new trees need to be cut down, if the furniture has lasted a few years, it’s already proved its durability and should last a fair few more years, too.
UK FUEL ECONOMY LABEL
This labelling scheme, introduced in October 2001 and found on all new cars, indicates how much carbon dioxide a car emits. It also gives estimated fuel costs for 12,000 miles and the vehicle excise duty for 12 months, so car buyers can see how much these will cost before they buy.
Although it looks like the European Energy Label the similarity ends there. The Fuel Economy Label, for instance, does not indicate that the car has been subjected to any particular criteria. Critics argue that the label puts the onus on the car buyer to choose a low-emissions vehicle, instead of on the automotive industry to improve CO² emissions across the board.
The Ecologist says
We don’t recommend buying cars. If you are considering doing so, look at all the options. Around 25 per cent of the environmental pollution and 20 per cent of a car’s lifetime energy expenditure occurs during manufacture. See if you can cut costs and impact by sharing the ownership of the car with a friend. Where available (London and other urban centres), look into car clubs. And if you are buying new, electric or hybrid cars are improving by the year.
MOBILUS LOOP
This widely-used label can indicate both recycled content and that the product is recyclable.
When a product is described as ‘recycled’, this means that it contains some material that has been recovered or reprocessed. This does not necessarily mean that it is made from 100 per cent recycled material, but could contain any proportion of recycled and virgin material.
The symbol has different implications for different products. Glass, paper and cans are recycled into similar products so can be used and recycled repeatedly. Most plastics can be recycled just once, and not in the same form. Soda bottles might become carpet or sleeping bag stuffing. Milk bottles might end up as building materials, recycling bins and toys.
Currently only about 3.5 per cent of all plastic generated is recycled, compared to 34 per cent of paper, 22 per cent of glass and 30 per cent of metals. Critics say the environmental impact of plastics regeneration is quite high in terms of energy use and hazardous by-products.
Also, the presence of the mobilus loop does not necessarily mean the product will be accepted for recycling locally. Producers increasingly manufacture their goods for a European or worldwide market and are obliged to include a variety of symbols, some of which are not for the benefit of the consumer but for the waste handling/disposal industry.
The Ecologist says
The most efficient thing consumers can do to reduce waste is to buy less, reuse where possible and refuse to buy over-packaged goods.
MARINE STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL
The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) began in 1997 as a joint initiative between the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and Unilever, a multinational company and one of the world’s largest buyers of fish. Its aim was to help preserve our dwindling fish stocks by certifying well-managed and sustainable fisheries.
Unilever and WWF are no longer on the MSC management board. MSC is officially an independently run non-profit organisation, with the bulk of its funding coming from charitable trusts and foundations and government agencies, though Unilever continues to provide funds as well.
The MSC has been criticised for not applying its standards evenly. It has also come under fire for its inability to certify fisheries in developing countries to the MSC standards and its lack of attention to labour problems in the fishing industry. To remedy the first concern, the WWF is now working with the MSC in communitybased certification for developing countries, but the issue of fair labour practices remains unresolved.
The Ecologist says
The MSC label is of limited use to most consumers, especially if standards are not applied evenly. Where possible, avoid prepackaged, supermarket fish; go to a local fishmonger and learn to ask questions about where the fish came from and how it was caught – and refuse to buy until you get answers you desire. You can also easily learn which varieties of fish are sustainable and which are not. The Marine Conservation Society produces a Good Fish Guide (see www.fishonline.org).
ENERGY STAR
All European manufacturers and retailers must tell you about the energy efficiency of household ‘white goods’ such as fridges, freezers, washing machines, tumble driers, dishwashers, air conditioners, ovens and lightbulbs. The European Energy Label is certified by the Energy Savings Trust (EST), in conjunction with industry and the government. On these labels, products are rated from A to G, with A being the most efficient.
In 2004, the most efficient fridges and freezers were given additional ‘star ratings’ of A+ and A++ to differentiate them from less efficient A-rated models. Certification is left to the manufacturers, and independent analyses have revealed a tendency for some manufacturers to overestimate the energy efficiency of their products, leading to a false classification of some appliances.
Energy efficiency is a relative term – in the context of the European Energy Label, it is not about absolute energy use but is defined as the demand for energy per unit of ‘service’, for instance the volume of a refrigerator or the weight of clothes washed. As the equipment gets larger, it is easier to achieve a high level of energy efficiency. Under this rating system, a small fridge may appear to be less energy efficient than a larger, more expensive model.
The Energy Star, which originated in the US, means that an appliance’s energy consumption is below an agreed level in standby mode. The criteria for this agreed level varies from product to product. In the UK, the Energy Star is most likely to be found on TVs and computer monitors, printers and fax machines. Within the EU, Energy Star is a voluntary labelling scheme and its use is controlled by an agreement between the USA and the European community. See www.energystar.gov for details.
The Ecologist says
The policy for energy efficiency white goods is due to be revised again in 2008 possibly to include the removal of current B rated appliances from the marketplace. Refrigerators are designed to last 15 years or so and should not be treated as impulse buys. Likewise it may be time for us to end our love affair with all things electric – such as toothbrushes, shavers, and kitchen gadgets of every conceivable purpose.
RED TRACTOR
The food industry’s attempt to get in on the green labelling act was launched in 2000 to reassure consumers that a range of food products meet independently inspected standards.
Compassion in World Farming has criticised the scheme’s animal welfare standards, saying that it gives few assurances that animals are treated any better than the minimum legal guidelines – and in some cases even these don’t apply.
The Ecologist says
This label cannot be used to assess the ethical or environmental criteria of British food.
LEAF MARQUE
Linking Environment and Farming (LEAF) is an industry funded certification scheme, with standards aimed at encouraging efficient farming systems that look after the land and the rural community. Its underlying objective is to develop farming standards that are above baseline levels, but these are not aimed at meeting organic standards.
The standards are based on what LEAF regards as a common-sense approach, combining modern technology with basic principles of good farming practice. It covers areas such as soil management, crop nutrition, pesticide use, pollution control, waste management, water and energy efficiency and the protection of wildlife and landscape. It doesn’t guarantee that food will be organic, non-GM, UK-produced or that animals will have not been intensively reared.
The Ecologist says
The Leaf Marque cannot be reliably used as an assessment of superior ethical or environmental criteria of any food.
CONFIDENCE IN TEXTILES
Launched in 1992, the Oeko-Tex standard indicates that the textile has been extensively tested for the presence of harmful chemicals.
Fabrics carrying this logo have been subjected to laboratory tests based on international test standards and other recognised testing procedures. These include simulation tests, which take into account all possible ways by which harmful substances could be absorbed into the human body (orally, via the skin, or by inhalation).
The Ecologist says
Textiles carrying this label may be free from harmful chemicals but this does not guarantee an ethical supply chain. They may still, for instance, have been made in sweatshops.
FREEDOM FOOD
Freedom Food was set up in 1994 by the RSPCA as the first farm-assurance scheme to concentrate primarily on animal welfare. The Freedom Food mark found on eggs, dairy, meat, poultry and salmon products means the animals involved have been reared, handled, transported and slaughtered to standards devised and monitored by the RSPCA.
Sadly, these standards are aspirational rather than strict requirements. Freedom Food certification won’t be withheld if these aspirations are not met to the letter. This was amply illustrated a few years ago when reports came to light of Freedom Foods pigs and chickens being raised in cramped conditions, and subjected to tail docking (in pigs) and beak trimming (in chickens). So much for freedom.
According to Viva!, Vegetarians International Voice for Animals, the Freedom Food animal welfare standards fall well short of the Soil Association’s standards and are usually little better than the legal minimum requirements. The RSPCA says its welfare standards are deliberately practical and achievable, thus they can be implemented on both large- and small-scale farms, and cover indoor and outdoor systems.
The Ecologist says
Freedom Food does little to challenge the orthodoxy of intensive farming and because it focuses simply on basic animal welfare, it does nothing to address the environmental impacts of this kind of farming.
EUROPEAN ECOLABEL
This is a Europe-wide label for non-food products including copy paper, dishwashing detergents, indoor paints and varnishes, hard floor coverings, textiles, televisions… even tourist accommodation. It covers a variety of environmental impacts such as production energy use, waste generation and recyclability, across the product’s whole life cycle.
Products must be independently certified and meet strict criteria for all the main environmental impacts. In the UK the scheme is administered by DEFRA; its flower label can be found on toilet tissue, kitchen rolls, paints and clothing. Some countries have national eco-label schemes, eg the Nordic Swan and the Blue Angel in Germany.
The Ecologist says
Because it aims to account for the entire life cycle of the product, goods carrying this label will be significantly ‘greener’ than most other similar products and will consume less energy, pollute less, or create less waste at the end of its life cycle.
- This article first appeared in the April 2007 edition of the Ecologist. It was a heavily edited version of what was to be a lengthy special. For the original version see here.
